OVERVIEW Spring 2015 Travels
Spring of 2015 finds me visiting friends in Paris, France and traveling with Wilderness Travel in May/June 2015 -- hiking in the Carpathian Mountains from Lviv, Ukraine to Krakow, Poland traversing Romania, Hungary and Slovakia.Pat Spitzmiller, Summit County, Elaine Schwartz and Barbara Kearns, New York, are sharing the hiking experience with me. Nancy & Dick Mack, Pullman, WA joined the WT trip. Those of you who have followed my journeys through the years know that Elaine and I have traveled together over the last 25 years - Nepal & Tibet; Sicily; Central Asia; Ethiopia; Mistaya in BC; Alaska; Brazil; Yellowstone in winter; ... to name a few.
My trip begins and ends in Paris, visiting longtime friends Joelle and Jean-Pierre Chereau and their family. In the map below, France is to the left of Germany...
The Carpathian mountain range form a U shape crossing many countries in Eastern Europe. On the map, you can faintly see the arc of mountains from the "S" in Slovakia to the "i" in Romania!"The Carpathians consist of a chain of mountain ranges that stretch in an arc from the Czech Republic (3%) in the northwest through Slovakia (17%), Poland (10%), Hungary (4%) and Ukraine (11%) to Romania (53%) in the east and on to the Iron Gates on the River Danube between Romania and Serbia (2%) in the south. The highest range within the Carpathians is the Tatras, on the border of Slovakia and Poland, where the highest peaks exceed 2,600 m (8,530 ft). The second-highest range is the Southern Carpathians in Romania, where the highest peaks exceed 2,500 m (8,202 ft)."
Experiences by Day (and night)!
May 22 - 24 Lviv, Ukraine
Some of you are concerned that I am traveling in Ukraine; let me set your minds at ease. I will be in Lviv and Bukovel in the southwestern part of the country; left side of map of Ukraine. The unrest is in eastern Ukraine. Lviv is a cosmopolitan city with strong ties to Europe. Bukovel, in the mountains on the border with Romania, is a ski resort. Given the US press coverage of Ukraine, it is very difficult to truly understand what is happening and why. Traveling in the country, we are exposed to a 'reality'. In the NY Times, May 28, there is a research study entitled "Russia's Endgame in Ukraine". We have a discussed this with Bohdan Fashtrhya, our Guide from Ukraine. 
Hotel Panorama (previously named Hotel Opera), Svobody Ave, Lviv (link to Trip Advisor review)Friday, May 22 Travel to Lviv, Ukraine to meet Pat Spitz!
Very early flight today… 7:30 am departure from CDG so taxi picked me up at 5:15 am. Without any traffic, I was at the airport before 6 am. Fortunately my body and brain are not certain what time zone they are in so waking at 4 am was no problem:-)
Flights today on LOT Polish Air… met Pat at Lviv airport. We were met by a driver taking us to Hotel Panorama. This driver was a surprise to us - not aware who paid for it!
We walked for a hour or so in the afternoon to get a feel for the city. Interesting discussion at a Coffee Shop with young Ukrainian man - on business in Lviv. He wanted an explanation why Obama is 'soft' with Putin! In his opinion, the US should be supplying high quality weapons to the Ukraine Military so that they can repel the Russians!
Dinner at Hotel... I had Bosrcht (beet soup,a Ukraine specialty), we shared pickled vegetables... and wine, of course!
A rainy, cold day in Lviv... my hair begins to frizz!
Saturday, May 23... Lviv, Ukraine
We walked for a hour or so in the afternoon to get a feel for the city. Interesting discussion at a Coffee Shop with young Ukrainian man - on business in Lviv. He wanted an explanation why Obama is 'soft' with Putin! In his opinion, the US should be supplying high quality weapons to the Ukraine Military so that they can repel the Russians!
Dinner at Hotel... I had Bosrcht (beet soup,a Ukraine specialty), we shared pickled vegetables... and wine, of course!
A rainy, cold day in Lviv... my hair begins to frizz!
Saturday, May 23... Lviv, Ukraine
With a driver and English-speaking guide, Solomiya, Pat and I toured the outskirts of Lviv, visited the village of Busk and the Olesky Castle. Thanks to Tereza at InLviv.com for organizing our day! And, special thanks to Oksana B for helping us understand her hometown. We look forward to eating at her sister's restaurants - Veronika and Amadeus :-)
We had planned to also see Lychakivske Cemetery and to go to the ballet Don Quixote at the Lviv Opera Theater, but stopping in village of Busk and speaking with woman in choir and the Priest, spending a long time at Olesky Castle and returning to Busk for wedding in afternoon, there was no time for Lychakivske. Then a late and excellent lunch/dinner at Veronika starting at 4:30 pm, we decided on a second glass of wine rather than rush to ballet! Veronika is one of two restaurants owned by Oksana B's sister, Lesai.
Our guide, Solomiya Kratsylo is excellent! Fun to be with, extremely knowledgeable, open to questions and enthusiastic. She will be our guide tomorrow when we tour the city! In fact, Solomiya will be one of the guides for Wilderness Travel's September 'Great Carpathian Traverse' trip.
Busk.. highlight of day is morning visit to Greek Catholic Church in village of Busk where we were greeted warmly by a parishioner, Nadia, who sings in the choir and the Priest. They shared information about the church and its icons and invited us to attend wedding in the afternoon. After our extensive visit to Olesky Castle, we did return to see wedding... a wonderful glimpse of Ukrainian people and customs.
Around the corner from the church is the remains of a Synagogue... note Star of David on door and remains of a wall. Before WW II, the Jewish population of Lviv was ~150,000, representing 1/3 of the city. Today, approximately 2000 Jews remain. Ukraine's Jews were sent to concentration camps, including Auschwitz-Birkenau in Poland.
"Olesky Castle according to historical chronicles was built in 1327. First the castle was surrounded by a wooden palisade and a deep ditch. On all sides the castle was protected by natures river swamps which formed the river Liberec. In the second half of the fifteenth century the castle became the residence of the magnate and was rebuilt in stone. In the seventeenth century near the castle was constructed Italian park. In middle 17th c. the Polish King Jan III
Sobieski kept a residence at the castle. He is especially well known for repelling the Turks in the battle of Vienna 1683 thus (temporarily) stopping the advance of the Ottoman empire!" Worthy of note, in the 17th c., Western Ukraine was part of Poland while Eastern Ukraine was part of Russia. Current boundaries exist since 1989 and the fall of the Soviet Union.
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| Country side around Olesky |
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| Wooden sculptures of religious figures |
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| Homage to King Jan III Sobieski |
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Over its history, Olesky Castle has undergone many renovations and today the 18th-century design of its interior remains intact. Since 1975 the castle has become a branch of Lviv Art Gallery." There is a large folk art collection; old tapestries; some paintings; much religious art..
Having spent 3 hours in Olesky Castle, we decided to forego the cemetery and return to Busk for wedding! Perhaps another time... for now, click on link to see YouTube video.
Sunday, May 24... Wilderness Travel Tour begins in LVIV
Starting at 9 am, our group of 6 and 3 WT guides walked throughout the city of Lviv enjoying architecture that dates to 13th/14th c. frequently rebuilt in 17th and 18th c. --many churches in many styles: baroque; renaissance; ... even the remains of a synagogue that had been destroyed by the Nazis. Solomiya was our 'Local' Guide! She will be guiding for Wilderness Travel... first as a trainee on their September 2015 Great Carpathian Traverse. Her knowledge, excellent English and enthusiasm make her a great asset to the company.
At the center of the old city is the Theater for Opera and Ballet. Our Hotel Panorama is opposite the theater; very centrally located. On Sunday afternoon, the plaza in front of the theater was packed with people ... musicians, kids in motorized cars, couples strolling...
The original city had been a fortress surrounded by a moat. Today, the moat is filled with small shops.
Many architectural styles portray the long and varied history of Lviv and the many 'owners' of the territory that today is 'Ukraine'. Lviv, in western Ukraine, aligns itself more with western Europe. Their distaste for Russia and especially Putin is signified by Putin's face on toilet paper! Ukraine had been part of the USSR and its collectivism and communism; independent since 1989. Western Ukraine does not want to be tied to Russia. The Russian population in Eastern Ukraine has mixed allegiances given their proximity and trade with Russia.
Lviv's main market square is surrounded by restaurants, the town hall,... and mimes. On Sunday, the churches are full... churches of many Catholic denominations: Greek Catholic, Roman Catholic; Orthodox Catholic...
In the plaza by the Opera Theater, a battered car traveled from Eastern Ukraine and the fighting with Russia to raise money.
"Venus in Fur", play by David Ives ...This sexually-charged comedy pits Vanda, a struggling actress, against Thomas, an author and director who auditions Vanda for a role in his newest work, a play based on an 1870s novel by German author Leopold von Sacher-Masoch, for whom "masochism" is named. The darkly erotic scenarios of the audition cause the seemingly naive actress to ultimately gain total dominance over the director. (We read and discussed this play in 2014 as part of Lake Dillon Theater's Play Club!)
Monday, May 25 Yaremche/Bukovel
Travel day from Lviv to Bukovel, a ski area in the South of Ukraine near border with Romania.. a small and growing area. Our day started with a 2+ hour train ride to Ivano-Frankivske then a 1+ hour bus ride to Yaremche. While we took the train, our bus and driver traveled by road... apparently roads in poor condition and we were treated to a more comfortable ride -- including tea!
1 1/2 hour hike in afternoon onthe Dovbush trail.... many displays telling the history and ecosystems in this region. Of course, our Ukrainian Guide, Bohdan, told the stories in a colorful manner! If you click on title of article, you can read more complete story about Oleksa Dovbush, Ukraine's 'Robinhood'.
Dovbush Rocks in Yaremche
Dovbush Rocks is a picturesque and a very popular among tourists part of the Carpathian (Ivano-Frankivsk region, Yaremche). Despite the numerous visitors and tourist infrastructure, this area still has excellent ecology and wonderful nature.
Geologists have determined that this rock mass formed more than 70 million years ago and was situated on the bottom of a long dried-up sea. The rocks stretch from the east to the west for almost 1 kilometer, being 200 meters wide.
Oleksa Dovbush (1700-1745)
Dovbush is a Ukrainian hero and an outstanding leader of Carpathian opryshky movement. This national insurrectionary movement existed from the 16th to the 18th century and was aimed against selfhood and large land proprietors. Rebels hid in the Carpathians, from where they raided estates, robbed and set them to fire together with bills of debt and papers justifying landlords’ rights to own land and peasants. The valuables and money received in such way were often distributed among the poor. That is why Oleksa Dovbush is called the Ukrainian Robin Hood.
Dovbush is a Ukrainian hero and an outstanding leader of Carpathian opryshky movement. This national insurrectionary movement existed from the 16th to the 18th century and was aimed against selfhood and large land proprietors. Rebels hid in the Carpathians, from where they raided estates, robbed and set them to fire together with bills of debt and papers justifying landlords’ rights to own land and peasants. The valuables and money received in such way were often distributed among the poor. That is why Oleksa Dovbush is called the Ukrainian Robin Hood.
The rocks are formed by sandstone, polished for centuries by rain and wind. As a result, these influences produced a chaotic agglomerate of polished giant lumps of stone. There are rocks looking like huge towers, and boulders of fancy shape pitched one upon the other: some of them manage, by a miracle, to keep their balance and do not fall. In the rocks there are many caves and winding paths, with some of them leading to canyons between the rocks, so narrow that a man could only scrape through. For the last fifty years the rocks became covered with beeches and fir trees. From the top of the rocks a wonderful view can be seen.
We are staying in the Bukovel Ski Resort ...
Dinner at the Resort... one of many excellent meals with dishes typical of Ukraine. Borscht, Beet Soup, was our starter; then, one of our many platters of meats and vegetables. If only I had the will power to skip dessert!
People of Ukraine
Enjoy some photos of the people of Ukraine.... the women in the center was at a Community Center and shared her story of being a recovering alcoholic!
Tuesday, May 26 Hike Bukovel; Rakhiv; Solotvino to Sighetu Marmatiei, ROMANIA
Morning hike on Mt Dovga @ Bukovel Ski area... about 2 hours. Weather overcast, cool, rain forecast. Today was the first of many lift rides - we rode chairs, Gondolas, Trams, Funiculars... necessary when you are hiking in the mountains where there are many ski areas!
On way to Romania, we drove through Rakhiv, the geographical center of Europe and center of Hutsul culture. Our group posing at monument... top of monument is guide Alex Nagy, Romania, and bottom right is guide Bo (Bohdan) Fashtryha, Ukraine. guide Gianluca Canalicchio, Rome, Italy is taking the photo.
We visited a museum with displays of the Hutsul people and their lives. For information about Hutsul people, who lived throughout the Carpathian Mountains, click here. An excerpt.... "... are an ethno-cultural group who for centuries have inhabited the Carpathian mountains, mainly in Ukraine and in the northern extremity of Romania (in the areas of Bukovina and Maramureş). "
At Solotvino, we will leave Ukraine and cross into Romania. When we got to the bridge, since the bus we had in Ukraine is too large to cross the bridge all of our bags and and all us transferred into a smaller van.... well, almost all of us! Going through the Border Control process, we could only have 9 people in the van and we are 9 + van driver. So, Bohdan, walked through the border crossings joining us as we actually drove into Romania!
Plan had been to walk across Tisza River bridge from Ukraine into ROMANIA, but, as you can see, it is pouring rain!
By the way, the rain poncho that Bo is wearing has a backpack pouch built into the back; manufactured by Ferrino. Pat has ordered it from Amazon - for me too!
ROMANIA...
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| Hotel Gradina Morii, Sighetu Marmatiei |
Since much of character of these Eastern Europe countries derives from their alliances during WW II, it is important to note that Romania allied with Nazi Germany in 1940 then changed its allegiance to the Allies in 1944 for the remainder of the war. These decisions and their rationale is discussed in "Romania in WW II".
Wednesday, May 27 Sighetu Marmatiei -- Sighet for short!
As a traveler, one must be flexible! Today, because of ominous weather forecast, our hike which would have included a climb and related descent was replaced by a 1 ½ walk… thus, we avoided sliding downhill in the mud!
On to the Merry Cemetery… so named because the ‘headstones’ are colorful wooden carvings that celebrate the life of the person... Veterinarians; Teachers; Home Makers;...
A heart wrenching experience was our visit to the Memorial of the Victims of Communism and of the Resistance. Originally built in 1897 as a prison for common criminals, during the Soviet period, following WW II, the building was used as a prison camp… for those people who resisted the communist regime or those who simply did not adhere to Soviet communist principles. The building was redesigned as a Memorial in 1993 so that future generations can understand the atrocities perpetrated on humanity. An interesting fact -that certainly had eluded me (as a naive American!)- is that the 1945 Yalta Conference among the allies, including FDR for the US, the ‘victors’ in WW II, determined the spheres of influence of Stalin and Churchill following WW II. Romania (as well as many of the ‘Eastern Bloc’ countries) were ‘given’ to Stalin. The Soviets declared themselves ‘liberators’ of Romania… liberating them from Nazi Germany. This Soviet control morphed into oppression of the Romanian people which continued until the fall of the USSR in 1989.
A heart wrenching experience was our visit to the Memorial of the Victims of Communism and of the Resistance. Originally built in 1897 as a prison for common criminals, during the Soviet period, following WW II, the building was used as a prison camp… for those people who resisted the communist regime or those who simply did not adhere to Soviet communist principles. The building was redesigned as a Memorial in 1993 so that future generations can understand the atrocities perpetrated on humanity. An interesting fact -that certainly had eluded me (as a naive American!)- is that the 1945 Yalta Conference among the allies, including FDR for the US, the ‘victors’ in WW II, determined the spheres of influence of Stalin and Churchill following WW II. Romania (as well as many of the ‘Eastern Bloc’ countries) were ‘given’ to Stalin. The Soviets declared themselves ‘liberators’ of Romania… liberating them from Nazi Germany. This Soviet control morphed into oppression of the Romanian people which continued until the fall of the USSR in 1989.
From the US Department of State, office of the Historian ... An excerpt on The Yalta Conference, 1945 "The Yalta Conference took place in a Russian resort town in the Crimea from February 4–11, 1945, during World War Two. At Yalta, U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill, and Soviet Premier Joseph Stalin made important decisions regarding the future progress of the war and the postwar world. ... "The Americans and the British generally agreed that future governments of the Eastern European nations bordering the Soviet Union should be “friendly” to the Soviet regime while the Soviets pledged to allow free elections in all territories liberated from Nazi Germany. Negotiators also released a declaration on Poland, providing for the inclusion of Communists in the postwar national government. "
Of course, the story played out differently in the ensuing years....
A chronology of events from 1944 to 1989 fills the walls of a room... horrors upon horrors.
The vastness of the USSR is depicted on netting hanging from the ceiling. All geography in red was part of the USSR at its most expansive... even Cuba was under their umbrella; their intent to control the world by spreading communism. No wonder the USA feared the spread of communism into Southeast Asia. I certainly had not considered that almost 50% of the Earth's land mass was controlled by the USSR! Perhaps this also adds information about Eastern Europe's concerns/fears about Russia's current incursions in Ukraine. As noted before, these countries in Eastern Europe are beginning to build their economies and cultures in a post-USSR world. Now, in 2015, Romania, Hungary, Slovakia and Poland are all members of the EU.
The vastness of the USSR is depicted on netting hanging from the ceiling. All geography in red was part of the USSR at its most expansive... even Cuba was under their umbrella; their intent to control the world by spreading communism. No wonder the USA feared the spread of communism into Southeast Asia. I certainly had not considered that almost 50% of the Earth's land mass was controlled by the USSR! Perhaps this also adds information about Eastern Europe's concerns/fears about Russia's current incursions in Ukraine. As noted before, these countries in Eastern Europe are beginning to build their economies and cultures in a post-USSR world. Now, in 2015, Romania, Hungary, Slovakia and Poland are all members of the EU.
The Elie Wiesel Memorial House - The Museum of the Jewish Culture in Sighetu Marmatiei, Maramures
Did you know that Elie Weisel is from Sighet, Romania? I did not until today.. bottom photo is home where Weisel lived until sent to Auschiwitz when he was 15. Nobel Peace prize in 1986, living in Boston now.
Weisel's home not only tells his story but also the Jewish culture of the area. Until WW II, approximately 1/3 of the population were Jewish. All were deported to Auschwitz, as was Elie Weisel... few survived.
Near Sighet, we visited a reconstructed 17th c. village.... could be Old Bethpage Village on Long Island! A time in history when homes were made of wood (where forests existed), cooking was over fires, roofs were thatch, people grew there food... similar everywhere around the globe.
FOOD -- have a mentioned that the food we are eating in Hotels and Restaurants in cities, villages and even at Ski Areas has been really good and voluminous? So, I skipped dinner tonight!
Thursday, May 28 Sighetu Marmatiei; Gutin Mountains; Maramures
After about a 1 hour drive, we are at the beginning of our hike in the Gutin Mtns. Quite long though easy through lush vegetation, mostly hiking on a old stone road or grassy path. Trail is fairly level through rolling hills... surface is quite muddy. While hiking today, we had a companion - really cute dog that stayed with us most of the day. The S Health app on my Samsung phone determined that I had walked almost 20,000 steps in 7.67 miles and had burned almost 600 calories. Silly, but fun!
We are staying at the Baia Sprie ski area... chair lift to dinner at lovely restaurant on top of mountain. First course was a Romanian antipasto! Dessert was a Romanian 'donut' smothered in cream... how do you say 'No thank you' in Romanian?
Hotel Turist Suior, Baia Sprie Ski Area, Maramures
Friday, May 29 Cross border into HUNGARY; Hortobagy National Park; Eger 
We entered northeastern Hungary from northwest Romania, leaving the mountains and traveling on the plains/steppes. This environment is conducive to sheep herding and agriculture. A small museum in Hortobagy depicts the life of the Sheep Herders.
This grassy steppe is home to many migrating birds... a visit to Hortobagy National Park gave us a glimpse into this bird sanctuary... a train ride took us deep into the park.
Our day ended at the Hotel Korona in Eger... dinner at local restaurant - Hungarian Goulash, of course!
Our day ended at the Hotel Korona in Eger... dinner at local restaurant - Hungarian Goulash, of course!
Saturday, May 30 Walking tour of Eger; Vineyard Hike; Wine Cellar visit
Morning walk in Eger and through vineyards. Hungary is well known for its wines... many of the varietals of grapes they grow are unique to Hungary. After hike and lunch, we had a wine tasting in the cellars of the Hotel Korona.
Sunday, May 31 Eger; Bukk Mountains; Lillafured, HUNGARY
This morning we toured Eger with an excellent local guide, Rosa, walking for about 2 hours which took us up to the fortress that was built in 14th c. to protect the village. This village was not damaged during WW II and its Baroque character is retained; Hungary was aligned with Germany. Many churches, primarily Roman Catholic. Population ~60,00 with 11 Catholic Churches... one minaret remains from the 1552 siege by the Turks. Most of the architecture in Eger is 18th c. baroque. Under the city is another 'city' of wine cellars ... a total of 130 km/80 miles of wine cellars!
Lunch in a lovely restaurant in the forest... beautiful, fresh trout... and salad, of course. Thank heavens we are hiking this afternoon!
This afternoon we hiked in the Bukk Mountains for about 2 1/2 hours... mostly in the forest out of the sun.... good soft surface; arrived at Hotel on foot.
Today was biggest day so far in terms of # steps... 21387, 8.36 miles. Am I silly to report on steps? Probably! The S Health app on my Samsung Galaxy S 5 is making this very easy...
Arrived at Hotel Palota in Lillafured about 5:30 pm. A castle! There must be a good story here; will have to do some research. "... The castle built in neo-renaissance style between 1927 and 1930 is surrounded by a hanging garden and a large park." Click on Hotel name for link to history information.
Dinner at Hotel - a buffet -- yea, we can each choose what we want :-)
Lunch in a lovely restaurant in the forest... beautiful, fresh trout... and salad, of course. Thank heavens we are hiking this afternoon!
This afternoon we hiked in the Bukk Mountains for about 2 1/2 hours... mostly in the forest out of the sun.... good soft surface; arrived at Hotel on foot.
Today was biggest day so far in terms of # steps... 21387, 8.36 miles. Am I silly to report on steps? Probably! The S Health app on my Samsung Galaxy S 5 is making this very easy...
Arrived at Hotel Palota in Lillafured about 5:30 pm. A castle! There must be a good story here; will have to do some research. "... The castle built in neo-renaissance style between 1927 and 1930 is surrounded by a hanging garden and a large park." Click on Hotel name for link to history information.
Dinner at Hotel - a buffet -- yea, we can each choose what we want :-)
Monday, June 1 Aggtelek National Park, SLOVAKIA; Roznava; Levoca
Morning hike through forest and meadow crossing from Hungary to Slovakia ending in town of Kecovo. Hike started in Aggtelek National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1995. The park contains the largest stalactite cave in Europe; we did not tour the Baradla cave choosing to spend our time hiking outdoors on a beautiful day.
Nancy is reading a display 'What you should know about trees." The trail crosses the border between Hungary and Slovakia opening to a beautiful flower-filled meadow.
Short drive to Raznava for lunch 
and tour of town with local guide, Judicka. Town had been a center for mining. Initially gold, silver and copper; finally iron ore. Now, with mining industry defunct, unemployment is 20%. Goal is to increase tourism. Architecture primarily Baroque. Religion, primarily Roman Catholic, although there are 2 Protestant churches in town. 
Short drive to Chateau Betliar, built and owned by Andrassy Family starting in the 15 th c. Current structure and furnishings from late 19th c. Family resided here until August 1944.
Hotel Stela, Levoca
Tuesday, June 2 Spissky Hrad, Levoca
Hiked up to Spissky Hrad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is a fortress on a hill.. "one of the largest ensembles of 13th and 14th century military, political and religious buildings in eastern Europe, and its Romanesque and Gothic architecture has remained remarkably intact." The castle/fortress served as a garrison until late 18th c when it was abandoned.
LEVOCA Why is it an important town? In the 15th c. the town located on an intersection of trade routes between Poland and Hungary, became a rich center of commerce and was an important cultural center.
St. James Church… 15th c. Gothic style… wood carved altar that is 18.62 meters high created by Master Pavol in early 16th c. For an amazing panoramic view of the cathedral and its altars, click here.
St. James Church… 15th c. Gothic style… wood carved altar that is 18.62 meters high created by Master Pavol in early 16th c. For an amazing panoramic view of the cathedral and its altars, click here.
Wednesday, June 3 Poprad/ Tatranska Lomnica/ Stary Smokovec
Many modes of transportation today: bus to train; train to Tatransca Lominica; after a coffee stop and visit to wonderful ski museum, we traveled by Gondola to top of mountain at 2643 m/ 7000 ‘; after walking around a glacial lake and having lunch, we took the Gondola down. 
While half of group continued down by lifts and train, Pat, Barbara and I descended 1500’ on foot to our Hotel Sorea Hrebinok. 3.5 mile trail was not very steep but covered with stable boulders necessitating paying attention to each footfall. Bohdan and I covered many subjects on our 3 hour hike… my understanding of his country, Ukraine, is increasing, yet limited. I even learned that his birthday is August 2; he is a ‘Leo’ like me!
Hotel Sorea Hrebinok is simple and clean; cafeteria-type restaurant. Dinner of salad, chicken cutlet, french fries and corn on the cob.Thursday, June 4 Stary Smokovec, Slovakia; Zakopane, POLAND
Day started with a funicular ride down to Stary Smokovec and a walk through the village. On the funicular, the ‘engineer’ spoke excellent English. When I commented on this ‘accomplishment’, he responded that his English should be good since he had lived in NY (Sunset Park?) for 6 years!
Next we drove to Zakapone crossing into POLAND without any notice since we are crossing between EU countries. After dropping our bags at Hotel Sabala, a funicular took us to top of ski area; we walked ~ 1 mile on top amid throngs of people and small shops - food and souvenirs. Today is an important Catholic Holiday - Corpus Domini - resulting in a 4 day ‘weekend’ in Poland. Weather is sunny and warm and perhaps half of Poland has come to the mountains! Stopped to taste grilled smoked cheese with cherry preserves on our way to restaurant and lunch.
Funicular down and a lovely 2 ½ hour hike. Shower and a bit of organization; no need to unpack since we head to Krakow tomorrow.
This evening we are ‘on our own’ for dinner… a break from the very large meals we have when menu planned by our Wilderness Guides. Tonight, Barbara, Elaine , Pat and I had a salad and wine at the Hotel, then out for dessert and a stroll. Friday, June 5 Tatras Mountains; to Krakow
Today is our last and most strenuous hike. Because of huge crowds wanting to ride to one of the highest points in the Polish Tatras, we waited more than an hour for a funicular ride to top. Most people looked at the fantastic landscape and hiked around the top. For us it is a hiking day! We are at Kasprowy Wierch, 1959 meters/6427 ' where we start and end our hike. A 3.5 - 4 hr hike down to the lakes and ascending back to the top; not so many miles, but steep. Along the ridge, I am standing with my left foot in Slovakia and my right foot in Poland, As always I loved the downhill and not the uphill, but ‘what goes down, must go up!’
By mid afternoon we returned to Zakapone and lunch. Following about 1.5 hr drive, we are in KRAKOW and the Hotel Wit Stwosz, my home for the next 5 nights. Okay - how do you say Wit Stwosz? Sounds like ‘Vit Svash’. For an American, the Polish language is a challenge! Lots of z’s, cz’s, w sounds like v, and in many words, the only consonant is y. If I ever return to Poland, I will definitely study the language a bit - at least to be able to pronounce words correctly!Saturday, June 6 KRAKOW
For Poland in 2015 to make sense, a history lesson is in order click on Brief History of Poland.
An all day walking tour of the city of Krakow (pronounced Krakov -- 'w' sounds like 'v' in Polish) with Agnescka, local guide. Tour included Rynek Glowny (Main Square), St Mary’s Church - 1/150 Catholic Churches - 90% of people are Catholic, Cloth Hall).
14th c University (1 of 13 in city) where Copernicus and Pope John Paul II studied;
Kazimierz, the Jewish District, visiting Stara Synagogue - now a museum telling the story of Krakow’s Jewish people; photo on bottom right is entrance to Oskar Schindler's home. Poland has a Jewish history that dates to the 14th c. In 1933, it is estimated that there were more than 3 million Jews in Poland representing 9.5% of the population. Few remain following WW II and the Holocaust... estimate is 25,000 Jews in Poland in 2015.
Wawel Castle and Basilica.
"The Wawel Royal Castle and the Wawel Hill constitute the most historically and culturally important site in Poland. For centuries the residence of the kings of Poland and the symbol of Polish statehood, the Castle is now one of the country’s premier art museums. ..."
Highlight of day was seeing Leonardo Da Vinci's "Lady with an Ermine" in Wawel Castle.
"Krakow is one of just six places in the world that can boast a painting by Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), the old masters’ old master. And there are known only three his female portraits of which Krakow’s Lady with an Ermine is arguably the most beautiful. It’s also in the best shape after the 500-plus years that elapsed. Leonardo’s masterpiece in The Czartoryskich Museum at 19 Sw. Jana street depicts a delightful teenage beauty, most probably Cecilia Gallerani who was the mistress of Milan’s ruler Lodovico Sforza il Moro, the artist’s patron. Most likely Leonardo da Vinci painted her in his early thirties, between 1482 and 1485 – i.e. some 20 years before the Paris' Louvre’s famed Mona Lisa – and for the first time he showed the sitter in the way that would soon become the standard. Art historians maintain it’s the world’s first modern-age portrait ever painted.
That stunning picture is 40.3 cm wide and 54.8 cm high, oil on walnut board. Unfortunately, the original background has been overlaid probably in the 17th c.
The portrait of the Lady with an Ermine was bought by Prince Adam Jerzy Czartoryski in Italy and incorporated into The Czartoryskis’ family collections in 1800.
Note: Due to the renovation of the Princes Czartoryski Museum in the years 2010-2016 the masterpiece by Leonardo da Vinci, Lady with an Ermine, is temporarily exhibited at the Wawel's Krakow Royal Castle. The picture has been placed in an upstairs room of the castle's western wing. It can bee seen separately for ten zloty or as the last part of the tour of the State Rooms (Royal chambers). Anyway, only 20 visitors are allowed in at a time. "
Sunday June 7... Weiliczka Salt Mine, Krakow
Joelle, Pat and I had tour of this n Salt Mine. In the 17th c. Salt was 'gold' -- the most valuable commodity. King Kazimierz the Great exploited these large salt reserves, making Poland the richest country in the world! The mine ceased operation in 1996 and is now a major tourist destination. All art work and the Chapel are carved in the salt. In the Chapel, even the chandelier is made of salt!
Monday June 8 Auschwitz and Birkenau
No words can describe the horrors that the Nazis perpetrated on humanity! Their goals were clear. They exterminated more than 6 million people that did not satisfy their view of the perfect 'man'... Jews and Gypsies needed to be erased from this earth; and, of course, anyone who objected. From 1941 to 1945, they did everything they could to make this happen. More than 3 million Jews, Poles, Gypsies were annihilated at the camps in Auschwitz and Birkenau.
The brick buildings look innocent enough... but they housed prisoners on their way to death. Today this is a museum and is clean and neat. It is the story that is told that is heart-wrenching. Daily, 2000 people were shot at the "execution wall" in a courtyard and bodies were cremated in ovens.
Large photographs show people being walked into the camps, sorted into men vs. women vs. healthy vs. weak, young vs. old.... to be assigned jobs or death. These photos are grim, but it is the exhibits that show personal belongings that magnify the horror. Prosthetics, eye glasses, shoes, hair, suit cases, prayer shawls - of more than a million people... the Nazis catalogued everything. Photos were taken of each prisoner noting the day they arrived at Auschwitz and the day they died.
When the facilities at Auschwitz were determined to be inadequate, the camp at Birkenau, 3 km away, was built with gas chambers and huge crematoriums.
In 1905-06, Spanish Philosopher, George Santayana wrote "Those who cannot remember the past are condemned to repeat it."
Jeb Bush, US Presidential candidate, visited Auschwitz 6/10/15.
Interesting! With US considering storing weapons in Poland presumably to ensure 'peace' in Eastern Europe given Russia's incursions in Ukraine, perhaps a wise move on Jeb's part to visit Krakow and Auschwitz.
Tuesday June 9 Environs of Krakow... An amazing day!
Joelle and I spent the day with Jolanta Koziol, ELTours.com, as our guide and driver. Jola met us at Hotel at 9 am to discuss the plan for the day. However, as soon as I mentioned that my heritage is 'Eastern European Jewish', Jola's mind went into high gear and a multi-location, event filled day emerged! We returned to Hotel at 7 pm exhilarated, exhausted and amazed how much we had seen and learned. Share this journey with me...
"Oskar Schindler (28 April 1908 – 9 October 1974) was an ethnic German industrialist, spy, and member of the Nazi Party who is credited with saving the lives of 1,200 Jews during the Holocaust by employing them in his enamelware and ammunitions factories, which were located in occupied Poland and the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia. He is the subject of the 1982 novel Schindler's Ark, and the subsequent 1993 film Schindler's List, which reflected his life as an opportunist initially motivated by profit who came to show extraordinary initiative, tenacity, and dedication in order to save the lives of his Jewish employees..."
On our way into the smaller towns and country-side, we traveled east of Krakow to Dabrowska Tarnova and visited the Center for Meeting of Cultures, housed in a renovated former Synagogue. Before 1939, Dabrowska was a typical Galician small town, a shtetl, where Poles and Jews coexisted.There was a synagogue on this site as early as 1697. During WW II, the Nazis used the building for their horses and wheat storage. After the war, the building, in total disrepair, became the property of the state. During the period 2008 - 2012, with 75% of funding from the EU and 25% from local municipality, the synagogue has been beautifully restored and is a cultural center for concerts, lectures, workshop and other events for the community. There are currently no Jews in Dabrowska Tarnova; however this cultural center preserves the heritage of Jewish history and culture!
We continued onto Podliepie, the village where Jola's Mother, Regina, lives and were surprised by a wonderful lunch including homemade pirogis.
After lunch, Regina joined us and we visited Zabno and a barn where 9 Jews had been hidden for 2 1/2 years by family known to Jola's family; 2 women have survived to tell the story.. Jola went to High School with Adam whose Mother, Stasia (Stanislawa Kozyra), was a child during WW II. Stasia and her family lived with her uncle Piotr Heleniak (photo below) brought the Jews to his barn. Their story is told on a 40 minute YouTube video made in 2012: https://www.youtube.com/watch?
Zabno, a small town in Southern Poland, was a haven for Jewish families until WWII broke out. In this moving report, we hear the disturbing stories of people who experienced Nazi cruelty first hand and see just how fresh the wounds left by the Final Solution still are.
Although many Jewish people from the former Krakow Province of Zabno were transported to concentration camps such as Belzec, this moving film focuses on those who were left behind - murdered in their own gardens and buried in unmarked graves, and the lucky few that managed to escape. But were they really lucky? Through startling and frank accounts of their experiences, a small group of surviving women recount how they suffered terrible beatings at German hands and watched with horror as their families were taken away to their deaths. "From that moment everyone thought about leaving the town". Yet even for those who escaped, their ordeals were far from over. "You could say animals lived in better conditions," one woman recalls, remembering the filthy barn she shared with nine others for over two years. The atrocities they suffered are only made more potent by the passing of time: "The worst thing is, we know we're the last generation of witnesses."
Finally, we visited Zalipie, the 'painted village', floral patterns on all houses; this had been our original destination ... until I mentioned my heritage and plans changed! Admittedly, these lovely homes and their art work is exactly what we needed after the 'heaviness' of the stories of the Dawbrovska Synagogue and the Jews hidden in the barn. YouTube video of this village:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1NfS1n-n0o
Description from http://www.amusingplanet.com/2014/03/zalipie-painted-village.html...
Zalipie is a village in southeastern Poland, 68 km east of the regional capital Kraków, known for its wonderfully painted houses.
The tradition of decorating both the exterior and the interior of houses originated at the end of the 19th century when old-fashioned furnaces were replaced with new furnaces with chimneys. Early furnaces had little more than a hole in the ceiling for smoke to escape, which being inadequate led to blackening of the walls by soot. In order to cover the unsightly walls the women of the houses began painting over the spots of soot with whitewash. Later, these whitewashed walls became backdrops for more immaculate designs. Using flower compositions, the women put special emphasis on decorating the wide stoves. They also painted flower garlands under pictures and around windows and doors. Soon they began to paint the exterior of their homes and pretty much anything unmovable – chicken coups, bridges, bins, wells and dog kernels.
Before returning to Krakow, we stopped at the home where Jola's Father had been born (he died Jan 2015) so that Jola could check the cherry tree for fruit. Of course, fruit was ripe and we picked cherries - photo of Joelle plucking cherries!
Even our return trip to Krakow was special. Rather than taking the motorway all of the way, we crossed the river by car ferry and traveled through lovely towns... even saw a stork at home on her/his nest!
10 hours after we departed Hotel this morning, we returned from our adventure with Jola. To our now favorite Krakow restaurant, Szara, for a light dinner and good bottle of Rose. What a day :-)
Wednesday June 10 a.m. Krakow; p.m. Fly to Paris
Our last morning in Krakow, we walked to Kazimierz and the JCC, Jewish Community Center , to see if we could learn about Susan Propper's grandfather, Samuel who lived in Krakow before WW II and was a principal in the Tempel Synagogue. Unfortunately, there is no information at the JCC but I was given the name and email address for their genealogist; have passed this information to Susan P. Perhaps I will also follow up to see if I can learn anything about my grandparents prior to their immigrating to the US in 1900.
Link to article "Guarding Poland's Jewish Past, Building its Future"
Afternoon flight to Paris to spend several days with the Chereau Family!
Until 1941, ~10% of Poland’s population were Jews; a strong culture in Poland. By 1945, 3 million Polish Jews and 3 million other Poles, Gypsies and other 'undesirable' people were exterminated by the Nazis. Today, there are estimated to be 25,000 Jews in Poland and, perhaps, growing.
For 100+ years prior to WW I, there was no independent country of ‘Poland’ … the territory was part of Austria-Hungary, Prussia or Russia. This explains why my Lustig Grandparents identified their country of origin as Austria or Poland… depending on the year of the New York Census! Born in 1880s, they left Poland about 1900 and lived in New York until the 1970’s.
Following WW II and Nazi occupation, Poland was ‘liberated’ by Russia and absorbed into the USSR enduring more than 40 years of Communist control. In 1989, with the collapse of the USSR, Poland became an independent country with current borders.
Poland joined the European Union in 2004 but not the euro zone. Until 2020, the EU is providing money to Poland for infrastructure and agriculture. Today, Poland has the 6th largest economy among the 28 nations in the EU.
http://www.economist.com/blogs/prospero/2015/06/culture-poland
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i2hCH5ANJBE
MORE HISTORY LESSONS!
Iron Curtain and Ex-U.S.S.R. Countries
In December of 1991 the Soviet Union (the Union of Soviet Socialist Republics, or U.S.S.R.) was officially dissolved. From it emerged Russia (the Russian Federation) and a number of independent countries in Central Asia and Eastern Europe (shown in greens in the map). In addition the countries of Eastern Europe were freed from Soviet military domination (shown in yellows in the map). In Central Asia 8 new (or newly independent) countries emerged: Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan, Tajikistan, Georgia, Armenia and Azerbaijan. In Eastern Europe the 6 new (or restored) countries are Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Belarus, Ukraine and Moldova. The Eastern European countries freed from Soviet domination but not part of the U.S.S.R. are Poland, East Germany, Czechoslovakia, Romania, Bulgaria, Hungary, Albania and Yugoslavia.
East Germany has reunited with West Germany. Czechoslovakia has split into the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Yugoslavia disintegrated violently creating Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro, Macedonia and most recently Kosovo; leaving the remainder as Serbia. Russia supports the separatist movements of Transnistria in Moldova and Abkhazia and South Ossetia in Georgia but these have no international recognition.
East Germany has reunited with West Germany. Czechoslovakia has split into the Czech Republic and Slovakia. Yugoslavia disintegrated violently creating Slovenia, Croatia, Bosnia, Montenegro, Macedonia and most recently Kosovo; leaving the remainder as Serbia. Russia supports the separatist movements of Transnistria in Moldova and Abkhazia and South Ossetia in Georgia but these have no international recognition.
PARIS, FRANCE
Brief visit to Paris and Chereau Family before venturing to Lviv, Ukraine and Wilderness Travel's Great Carpathian Traverse. Returned to Paris June 10 - 13.
Tuesday & Wednesday, May 19 - 20 Travel to Paris
Departed home on the morning of May 19 in a snow storm. Fortunately roads were just wet and CME Shuttle arrived at DEN by 9:30 am. A few hours in the Admirals Club and I was on my way! Uneventful and long flights from DEN to CLT to CDG... on time arrival in Paris. Claire Chereau met me at airport and drove me home to Montmorency! While I have not been here for 7-10 years, it is like coming home!
During my yeas with IBM, I traveled to Paris several times each year and always arranged a weekend with Joelle and Jean-Pierre visiting them, their daughters, Claire and Marie and Joelle’s Parents, Jeanine and Bernard. In the early years, when they lived in Pierrefitte, I would stay at the home they shared with Jean-Pierre’s Mother… Madame Chereau! Some history… I met Joelle in the summer of 1970 when she stayed at our home in Brookville; she was participating in an exchange program and worked that summer at the AHRC Camp close to the house. It is now 45 years later and we are friends and family!
During my yeas with IBM, I traveled to Paris several times each year and always arranged a weekend with Joelle and Jean-Pierre visiting them, their daughters, Claire and Marie and Joelle’s Parents, Jeanine and Bernard. In the early years, when they lived in Pierrefitte, I would stay at the home they shared with Jean-Pierre’s Mother… Madame Chereau! Some history… I met Joelle in the summer of 1970 when she stayed at our home in Brookville; she was participating in an exchange program and worked that summer at the AHRC Camp close to the house. It is now 45 years later and we are friends and family!
After showering and getting settled, we had lunch at home. Then a brief visit at Thema Plus, their textile company with office a few blocks from the house. Bernard & Jeanine live in an apartment in the same building as office. The business was started by Joelle more than 30 years ago and is managed by Joelle, Jean-Pierre, Marie and Claire. Bernard at 89 years old participates by managing the building!
Joelle and Father; Claire; Jean-Pierre;
Nap this afternoon; dinner at a Restaurant in forest near house... had forgotten how good French food and wine are!
Thursday, May 21 PARIS
Joelle and I spent most of the day in the city… visiting the new Picasso Museum in Le Marais. The 17th c. mansion, Hotel Sale, has been completely renovated during the last 5+ years to show a full range of Picasso’s art media from paintings on canvas and wood, sculptures in metal, plaster, ceramic, from realism to cubism to the powerful images of his later years. Picasso lived from 1881 - 1973 and was prolific as an artist from his first art lesson at 14 years old to his last day.
And, on the top floor of exhibition are paintings from Picasso's private collection...
Lunch at La Dome de Marais… we shared a salad and a small pizza with a delicious rose’ wine and wonderful conversation of family, business, the world…
Tonight, Joelle and Jean-Pierre are going to a Rotary event which starts at 8 pm with lecture then dinner. No way I can stay awake until midnight, have my brain wrestle with the French language, and wake up at 4 am, so I stayed at home. For me, a lovely dinner of cold chicken, Chablis, cherries and… the chocolate croissant that I did not eat for breakfast!
Friday, May 22 Travel Paris to Lviv, Ukraine
Up at 4 am, taxi at 5 am and flight to Lviv via Warsaw at 7:30 am. Met Pat at Lviv airport and we are off to another adventure!
Thursday June 11 -- Saturday June 13 Paris
Thursday, June 11 PARIS
Visited the Quai Branly Museum and an excellent exhibition of sculptures from the Cote d’Ivoire. The exhibit was very well designed; an amazing array of high quality carvings.
Friday, June 12 Catch up Day…
Laundry etc. and walk around Enghien Les Bains Lake with Joelle… 3.5 miles. Enghien has Resort with Spa and Casino and train to Paris, Gare du Nord. It is about a 10 minute walk to train station and less than 15 minutes ride to Paris -- very convenient... how nice to live in the 'suburbs' and be so close to the city!
Dinner at new restaurant in Enghien les Bains...
Saturday, June 13 - Day in Normandy
In less than 2 hours we drove to the northwest of Montmorency to Normandy and the English Channel - La Manche. Normandy has its own architectural style. We visited Trouville, Deauville and Honfleur... each resort towns on the Channel surrounded by forest and agricultural areas. Fresh fish and seafood is absolutely the best!
Our lunch in Trouville was in the fish market... sitting next to Alain's market we thoroughly enjoyed shrimp, lobster, oysters, langoustines and a crisp chardonnay. Is there anything better?
At a small flea market in Trouville, Joelle bought 2 African sculptures reminiscent of the exhibit we sau at Quai Branly!
At a small flea market in Trouville, Joelle bought 2 African sculptures reminiscent of the exhibit we sau at Quai Branly!
On to Deauville for a walk on boardwalk and into town for ice cream and coffee...
Honfleur -- water!
Sunday, June 14 Travel - Montmorency/CDG/DEN/Silverthorne...
20 hours in transit, but all flights on time and connections made. Best of all, I arrived DEN in time to make the 6:30 pm CME shuttle home.
Quotation from Mark Twain's Innocents Abroad....
"Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness, ... "
